Trev's 3 favourite biking tips.

In this series, Coach Trevor imparts some of his vast knowledge on cycling. Here he gives some top tips on looking after one of our most prized possessions: Your Bike.

Part 1: Bike.

Brake block alignment:

Click Here to read part 2

Click Here to read part 3

The correct way to align a brake block is to have a slight toe-in in relation to the rim and wheel rotation. If you are unfamiliar with the term 'toe-in' it basically means the front edge, in relation to the direction of travel, of the brake is slightly turned inward toward the rim. One of the most talked about benefits of having this toe-in setup correct is it helps to eliminate brake squeal (not always). You can buy some very nice tooling to get this setup correct, but if you don't have the tools and would like to get your setup sorted try this:

Use a band or strap that will offer a 1mm spacing. Put it around the back end of the brake block. Lightly apply the brake. Adjust the block so that the front edge is against the rim with the back edge keep off the rim by the spacer used. You can use a Velcro strap around the brake lever to lightly apply the brake so you can free up both hands to make the adjustments to the blocks. When set, tighten everything and remove the spacer. Check the brake action. You should be set to go.

CO2 freezing issues:

Do you use


to inflate your tyres? Have you experienced the nozzle freezing onto the valve stem? If it's a YES then try this the next time you reach for the gas and get frozen:

Simply spray some of your drink onto the frozen parts and things should work a bit better.


A pain at the best of time, but unfortunately they come to all of us at some point or another. Changing an inner in the dark or during the winter has got to be one of the most frustrating things about cycling. On my race or training bike I will put up with it because it is part of our sport, but on my commute bike I try to avoid it like the plague. This tip won't work for everyone simply because it is a bit fiddly. You will need some used tyres, your new tyres and scissors. Now this tip may take a bit more of a description than the other 2 tips, but that is because there are a few more steps to getting it done. What this tip is about is doubling up on the tyre bead thickness to offer more puncture protection when performance is less of a concern. I have done this on 23, 25 and 28mm tyres and have found the 23 and 28mm combination works the best. First step is to cut away the sidewalls of the used 23mm tyres so you left with just the top bead. Insert this into the 28mm tyre. I have found that the 23mm's outside diameter fits well into the inside diameter of the 28mm tyre. Refit tyre and inner tube, to the rim, as per normal and inflate. If you don't have different size tyres you can still do this, but you will need to cut a piece out of the top bead inlay. After cutting the sidewalls away to create the inlay, insert it and measure what needs to be cut away. Cut a smaller amount on the first cut, check, and cut again until the fit is neat and without too big a gap. Use some silicone sealer to smooth the joint if needed. Allow the sealer to set then construct the wheel as per normal. No guarantees, but personal experience would suggest you are less likely to have a puncture. I used this setup for a year of weekly commutes that included 12miles of off road and I did not have a single flat. (the tyres only came off the rim for the purpose of the photo)

23mm tyre bead inserted into a 28mm tyre.


By Coach Trevor

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